Kegerator Power Consumption: What to Expect

What power consumption means on a listing

Power consumption on a kegerator listing is a set of stated numbers, not a promise about how the unit runs. The three details that matter are wattage, amperage and voltage. Wattage states the power the unit draws while it runs. Amperage (often written as amps) states the current draw. Voltage states the supply the unit expects. None of these tells you how the unit will perform; they describe what the unit needs from the wall connection.

A single tap, dual tap or triple tap unit can carry very different stated figures, because the cooling system, not the taps, drives the draw. The same is true for cabinet size: a larger cabinet tends to draw more, but the listing is the only source for the exact figure. For the overall choice of a first unit, the best kegerator guide explains how picks are compared on stated details.

• wattage: the running draw in watts
• amperage: the current draw in amps
• voltage: the supply the unit expects

Where the electrical details appear in a listing

On most listings, the electrical details sit in the bullet list or the spec sheet inside the listing: wattage, amperage, voltage, sometimes a plug type. Read those lines before you compare two units. A listing that states wattage but not amperage tells you only part of the story; a listing that states amperage but not voltage tells you another part.

The first words of a title rarely mention electrical details. The title says the type, the tap count and the size name, such as 15 inch, 24 inch or full size. The electrical spec is almost always in the bullets below the title. So read the bullet list, not just the headline.

Running draw versus standby draw

Some listings distinguish a running draw from a standby draw. The running draw is what the unit pulls when the cooling system is active. The standby draw is what it pulls when the unit is holding a set condition. Both figures can appear on the same listing, and they answer different planning questions. For a first kegerator, the running draw is usually the figure to compare across listings, because that is the higher of the two.

If a listing shows only one figure, treat that figure as the stated draw and compare it on that basis. For a closer look at how the two figures relate, the article on standing power usage compares what a listing can and cannot say.

Compressor versus thermoelectric units: what the listing states

Kegerator listings sort into two cooling systems: compressor units and thermoelectric units. The title or spec line says which one a model uses. The compressor is the larger cooling system and drives the draw during operation; the thermoelectric system is a solid-state device with a different draw profile. Neither type is better or worse on its own. What you read is the stated figure for that model.

The comparison between the two systems, as listing words, is covered in the article on thermoelectric versus compressor units. That article explains what the two names tell you and what the listing must still state.

Size and efficiency signals you can read

The ENERGY STAR program, an official program of the United States government, publishes guidance for refrigerators and for coolers, the category that includes wine coolers and beverage centers. Its materials state that certified refrigerators are about 9 percent more energy efficient than models that meet the federal minimum standard, and that certified coolers are up to 20 percent more efficient than the federal minimum. When a kegerator listing carries the ENERGY STAR mark, it means the maker states the product meets the program's criteria.

The same program guidance says that, in general, the larger the refrigerator, the greater the energy consumption, and that models with fewer doors reduce air leakage. Use those two points as reading hints: a unit with a wider cabinet tends to state a higher draw, and a single door unit tends to state a lower one. The listed figure, not the hint, is what you compare. Size names such as 24 inch and full size are explained in the 24 inch guide.

What to check before you plan the space

Before you settle on a unit, read the electrical block of the listing and confirm three things: the voltage the unit expects, the amperage it states, and the wattage if the listing gives one. If any of these is missing, the listing should say "not stated by the seller," and you treat that detail as unknown until the maker's manual or spec sheet states it.

You are reading the listing to plan the space, not to install anything. The manual and the maker's support page cover the connection details. Your job at the listing stage is to compare the stated figures between two or three units so that, when you choose, you know exactly what the unit expects. A unit that states a higher amperage draw is not automatically a problem; it is simply a figure to acknowledge before you finalize the placement. The article on power supply type explains what the listing can tell you about the supply.

When the listing leaves the numbers out

A kegerator listing sometimes leaves wattage, amperage or voltage out entirely. That is not a defect in the listing; it means the seller did not state the figure. The phrase "not stated by the seller" is itself information: it tells you that the detail is unknown at the listing level, and that the maker's manual is the next place to look.

When you compare two listings and only one states the amperage, you cannot conclude that the unit without the figure draws less. You can only say that one unit states the detail and the other does not. Compare on stated details only, and keep the unstated unit until its manual resolves the question.

What to pick for your situation

Questions

Do kegerator listings always state wattage?

No. Some state wattage, some state amperage and voltage, and some state nothing. Read the bullet list and note which figures appear.

What is the difference between wattage and amperage?

Wattage states the power the unit draws while running; amperage states the current draw. Both are stated numbers on a listing. The maker's spec sheet is the source for both.

Does the number of taps change the draw?

The taps themselves do not state a draw. The cooling system drives the stated figure. A single tap and a dual tap unit with the same cooling system may share the same stated draw, but only the listing confirms it.

What does the ENERGY STAR mark tell me?

It tells you the maker states the unit meets the program's criteria. The ENERGY STAR program's own materials state that certified refrigerators are about 9 percent more energy efficient than the federal minimum, and certified coolers up to 20 percent more.

Should I plan around the running draw or the standby draw?

Read what the listing states. The running draw is usually the higher figure and the one to compare across listings. The manual covers the rest.

What if the listing shows no electrical details?

Treat the figures as not stated by the seller. Compare the remaining stated details and confirm the electrical figures from the maker's manual before you finalize the space.